About Philodendron Verrucosum
Philodendron Verrucosum Introduction
Philodendron verrucosum is a highly prized aroid celebrated for its dramatic, heart-shaped leaves, which display an iridescent, velvety texture and deep emerald green coloration accented by pale, silvery-green chevron patterning along the veins, with the reverse side often flushed a rich burgundy or wine-red. The plant’s most distinctive physical trait, and the source of its species name, is the dense covering of small, reddish, hair-like protrusions, or trichomes, found along its petioles and new growth, giving the plant a fuzzy, textured appearance that sets it apart from the smoother-leaved Philodendrons more commonly found in general cultivation. As a hemiepiphytic climber, it produces long, trailing or climbing stems that naturally seek out vertical surfaces to ascend as they mature.
Native to the tropical rainforests of Central and South America, spanning regions from Costa Rica and Panama down through Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru, Philodendron verrucosum grows naturally in the deeply shaded, consistently humid understory beneath a dense rainforest canopy, often climbing tree trunks using aerial roots to anchor itself as it ascends toward brighter light higher up. This origin in a low-light, high-humidity, and highly stable tropical environment explains why the species has developed such a strong reputation among collectors as a rewarding but genuinely humidity-demanding plant, considerably more particular about its growing conditions than many of the more commonly available, easier-care Philodendron hybrids.
Among its most notable features is the striking visual contrast between the velvety, almost holographic sheen of its emerald foliage and the pale, silvery venation that traces each leaf, a combination that has made it one of the most sought-after and photographed aroids among serious houseplant collectors. Its slow but steady climbing growth habit, coupled with leaves that can grow substantially larger under ideal humidity and support conditions, makes a well-grown, mature specimen trained onto a moss pole or totem a genuinely dramatic architectural centerpiece, while its relative rarity and specific care requirements have also made it something of a status symbol within the aroid-collecting community.
Philodendron Verrucosum Care & Growing Guide
Successfully growing Philodendron verrucosum requires recreating the deeply humid, warm, and evenly shaded conditions of its native rainforest understory considerably more closely than most common houseplants demand, making it a rewarding but genuinely more advanced species for collectors willing to put in the extra effort. High humidity, ideally 60 percent or above, is arguably the single most important factor in keeping this plant’s velvety foliage healthy and free of the crisping or browning that quickly develops in drier air, making it a strong candidate for a greenhouse cabinet, terrarium, or a consistently humid bathroom rather than a typical dry living room shelf.
Light should be bright but distinctly indirect, mimicking the dappled shade the plant receives from beneath a dense forest canopy in the wild; direct sun, even filtered through a window, can scorch the delicate, velvety leaf surface far more readily than it would damage tougher-leaved Philodendron relatives. Watering calls for a consistent, moderate approach, keeping the chunky, well-draining aroid mix evenly moist without ever allowing it to become waterlogged, since this species’ relatively fine root system is sensitive to both prolonged drought and standing water, and using a totem or moss pole to support the plant’s natural climbing habit tends to produce noticeably larger, more vigorous leaves than allowing the vines to trail unsupported.
Beyond humidity, light, and watering, Philodendron verrucosum benefits from stable warm temperatures, gentle and infrequent feeding, and a growing medium that stays consistently airy and well-aerated rather than dense or compacted. Because the species is genuinely more demanding than beginner-friendly Philodendron hybrids, most successful growers invest in some combination of a humidity tent, greenhouse cabinet, or pebble tray setup, along with patience for its comparatively slow growth rate, in exchange for the reward of its uniquely textured, iridescent foliage as the plant matures and climbs.
Soil
Philodendron verrucosum requires a very loose, chunky, well-draining aroid mix that allows ample airflow to its roots, typically combining components such as orchid bark, perlite, coarse coco coir, charcoal, and sphagnum moss, rather than a dense, standard houseplant potting soil, which retains far too much moisture for this species’ comfort. A slightly acidic pH range of approximately 5.5 to 6.5 tends to suit the plant well, reflecting the naturally acidic, organically rich forest floor and epiphytic surfaces it grows on in the wild. Good drainage combined with excellent aeration is absolutely critical to this species’ health, since its comparatively fine root system is highly sensitive to prolonged wet conditions and prone to rapid, sometimes fatal root rot if kept in a compacted or overly moisture-retentive mix. Amendments such as extra perlite, orchid bark, horticultural charcoal, and long-fiber sphagnum moss can be blended to fine-tune the mix’s moisture retention and airflow balance, allowing growers to hold the evenly moist, never-soggy conditions this species prefers. Soil composition has an outsized effect on this species’ overall health compared to many hardier houseplants, since even brief periods of compacted, poorly aerated substrate can trigger root stress and subsequent leaf loss in a plant already sensitive to environmental fluctuation. Common soil-related problems include poor drainage, which is arguably the single greatest risk factor for root rot in this species; compaction, which quickly suffocates the fine root system as chunky aroid mixes break down over time and require refreshing; inappropriate pH, which can interfere with nutrient uptake in an already nutrient-sensitive species; salt build-up, often from mineral-heavy tap water or over-fertilizing, which can damage the delicate root tips; nutrient deficiencies, which can show up as pale, smaller, or less vividly patterned new leaves in old, depleted mix; and root boundness, which develops relatively quickly in this actively growing climber and is best addressed through more frequent repotting than many other houseplants require.
Fertilizer
Philodendron verrucosum benefits from light, regular feeding during its active spring and summer growing season, with a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to roughly one-quarter to one-half strength applied every four weeks generally supporting healthy growth without risking the fertilizer burn this comparatively sensitive species can experience at full label strength. Feeding should be reduced significantly or paused entirely during the slower fall and winter months, when the plant’s growth naturally slows and excess nutrients are more likely to accumulate unused in the growing medium. Signs of over-fertilization include browning or crisping leaf edges, a visible salt crust on the surface of the chunky growing mix, and stunted or distorted new growth, while under-fertilization typically presents as pale, smaller-than-expected new leaves and a general slowing of the plant’s already gradual growth rate. Organic alternatives such as a well-diluted seaweed extract or fish emulsion, applied at a similarly reduced strength, can provide a gentler, slower-release source of nutrients for growers who prefer to avoid synthetic fertilizers, and tend to carry a somewhat lower risk of the salt buildup issues this species is particularly sensitive to given its fine root system.
Watering
Philodendron verrucosum prefers consistently and evenly moist, well-draining soil, watered thoroughly whenever the top inch or so of the chunky aroid mix begins to dry out, rather than being allowed to dry out completely between waterings the way many succulent-adjacent houseplants prefer. Filtered, distilled, or rainwater is strongly preferred over hard tap water, since this species’ fine, sensitive root system is particularly vulnerable to the mineral and chlorine buildup that can accumulate in a chunky, slower-draining mix over repeated tap-water waterings. Signs of underwatering include drooping, slightly curling leaves and a general loss of the plant’s typically upright, turgid posture, while overwatering more commonly presents as yellowing lower leaves, a soft or mushy stem base, and, in advanced cases, a sour or rotten smell from the growing medium indicating root rot has set in. Watering needs shift somewhat with the seasons and growth stages, with the plant typically requiring more frequent watering during its active spring and summer growth period, when warmth and humidity support faster moisture uptake, and correspondingly less frequent watering during the cooler, slower-growing fall and winter months, when the chunky mix should be allowed to dry slightly further between waterings to avoid root stress.
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Lighting
Philodendron verrucosum thrives in bright, indirect light that closely mimics the dappled shade it receives beneath a dense rainforest canopy in the wild, with an east-facing window or a spot several feet back from a bright south or west window generally providing an appropriate balance of intensity without risking damage to its delicate, velvety foliage. Insufficient light typically results in slower growth, smaller leaves, and a gradual loss of the vivid contrast between the deep green leaf surface and its pale, silvery venation, while excessive or direct sun exposure can cause bleaching, scorching, or crisping of the velvety leaf surface considerably more readily than it would affect tougher, glossier-leaved Philodendron species. If natural light is insufficient, a full-spectrum grow light positioned relatively close to the plant for ten to twelve hours daily can provide reliable supplemental light, particularly useful for growers keeping this species in a greenhouse cabinet or terrarium setup; conversely, a plant showing signs of leaf scorch from excess sun should be moved further from the light source or given a sheer curtain to soften the intensity.
Temperature
Philodendron verrucosum thrives in consistently warm temperatures generally between 68 and 82°F (20 to 28°C), reflecting its equatorial rainforest origins, and performs poorly with any significant or prolonged temperature fluctuation, making stable, consistent warmth considerably more important for this species than for hardier houseplants. The plant has quite limited cold tolerance, with temperatures dropping below about 60°F (15°C) risking slowed growth, leaf drop, or stress-related discoloration, and it should be kept well away from cold drafts, air conditioning vents, and drafty windows or doors, particularly in winter. At the warmer end of the spectrum, the species tolerates heat reasonably well provided humidity is also elevated in tandem, since high temperatures paired with dry air can quickly accelerate moisture loss from its delicate foliage; growers in hot, dry climates should pair any warm growing environment with correspondingly high humidity, and a stable, climate-controlled space such as a greenhouse cabinet often proves the most reliable way to protect this species from the temperature and humidity swings of an open room.
Humidity
Philodendron verrucosum has notably high humidity requirements compared to many popular houseplants, generally needing 60 to 80 percent humidity or higher to maintain healthy, unblemished foliage, a demand directly tied to its native deep-rainforest understory habitat. Low humidity stress in this species shows up quickly and prominently as browning, crisping leaf edges, curled or stunted new growth, and a notable dulling of the leaf’s characteristic velvety sheen, making this one of the more humidity-sensitive Philodendron species widely grown in cultivation. To meet these demands, many growers keep Philodendron verrucosum in a dedicated greenhouse cabinet, enclosed terrarium, or humidity tent, which offers the most reliable and consistent way to maintain the elevated humidity this species requires over the long term. A quality room humidifier placed near an open-air specimen can also provide meaningful support, particularly in drier climates or during winter heating season, while a pebble tray offers only a modest humidity boost that is often insufficient on its own for this particularly demanding species; regular misting can provide brief, temporary relief but should not be relied upon as a primary humidity strategy, since its effects fade quickly and inconsistent misting can sometimes encourage fungal issues on the fuzzy petioles if airflow is also poor.
Propagation
Philodendron verrucosum is most commonly and successfully propagated through stem cuttings that include at least one node, with this method offering considerably higher and more predictable success rates than growing new plants from seed, which is slow, requires fresh viable seed that is rarely available to home growers, and is essentially impractical outside of specialized breeding efforts. To propagate by stem cutting: 1. Using a clean, sharp knife or pruning shears, select a healthy section of vine containing at least one node, ideally with an attached leaf, from a mature, actively growing plant. 2. Make a clean cut just below the node, taking care to include any visible aerial root or root node along that section of stem, since these greatly improve rooting success. 3. Allow the cut ends of both the cutting and the parent plant to air dry briefly for an hour or two, which can help reduce the risk of rot at the wound site. 4. Place the cutting in a moist, well-draining propagation medium such as sphagnum moss, or alternatively in a jar of clean water, ensuring the node is in contact with the moist medium or submerged in water. 5. Position the cutting in a warm, humid environment, ideally 75°F or above with humidity of 70 percent or higher, using a propagation box, humidity dome, or greenhouse cabinet if available. 6. Keep the cutting in bright, indirect light and maintain consistent moisture in the propagation medium without allowing it to dry out or become waterlogged. 7. Check periodically for new root growth, which for this species typically becomes visible within four to eight weeks under favorable warm, humid conditions, though it can take longer in cooler or less humid setups. 8. Once roots reach an inch or more in length, transition the cutting into a chunky aroid potting mix, maintaining high humidity for several additional weeks as the young plant continues to establish before treating it as an independently growing specimen. Water propagation and sphagnum moss propagation both tend to work reasonably well for this species, though moss propagation is often considered to produce a slightly stronger initial root system better adapted to the transition into soil. Late spring through summer, coinciding with the plant’s natural active growth period, is generally the best time to propagate, with newly rooted cuttings typically taking two to four months to become well-established, independently thriving plants.
Potting
Philodendron verrucosum does best in a pot with excellent drainage, generally only slightly larger than the current root mass, paired with a very loose, chunky aroid mix combining orchid bark, perlite, charcoal, and sphagnum moss rather than a dense, standard potting soil. Because this species is a natural climber, providing a moss pole, coco coir totem, or similar vertical support at planting time is strongly recommended, since climbing specimens generally produce noticeably larger, more mature-shaped leaves than those left to trail unsupported. Repotting is typically needed every one to two years for actively growing specimens, somewhat more frequently than many slower-growing houseplants, both to refresh the chunky mix before it breaks down and compacts, and to accommodate the plant’s steady root and vine growth. Signs that repotting is needed include roots visibly emerging from the drainage holes or circling the surface of the mix, water draining through unusually quickly without properly moistening the medium due to root crowding, or a noticeable slowing of growth despite otherwise good care, suggesting the roots have outgrown their available space. Root pruning is rarely necessary for this species given its relatively fine root system, though any obviously rotted or blackened roots encountered during repotting should be trimmed away with clean shears before repotting into fresh mix. When transitioning to a new pot, handle the root system gently, keep the plant at the same growing depth it was previously established at, maintain the climbing support structure through the transition if the plant is already trained onto one, and keep humidity elevated for a week or two afterward to help minimize transplant stress while the roots adjust.
Pruning
When to Prune
The best time to prune Philodendron verrucosum is during the spring or summer growing season, when the plant is actively producing new growth and best equipped to recover quickly from any cuts.
Frequency of Pruning
Light, routine pruning to remove damaged or yellowing leaves can be done as needed throughout the year, while more significant vine-length pruning to control size or generate propagation material is typically only necessary once or twice a year, depending on how quickly the plant is climbing or trailing.
Purpose of Pruning
Pruning primarily serves to remove damaged, yellowing, or disease-affected foliage, to manage the length and shape of the climbing vine as it outgrows its support structure or allotted space, and to generate healthy stem cuttings for propagation.
Tools Needed
A clean, sharp pair of small pruning shears or precision scissors is recommended, with blades wiped down with rubbing alcohol before and between cuts to help prevent the spread of any fungal or bacterial pathogens between plants.
Preparation
Before pruning, clearly identify which leaves or vine sections need removal, and confirm that your tools are clean and sharp so that cuts heal quickly and place minimal stress on this comparatively sensitive species.
Step-by-Step Pruning Guide
- To remove damaged, yellowing, or disease-affected leaves, cut them away close to the stem, taking care not to damage the surrounding healthy tissue or nearby nodes.
- To control the length of a climbing vine, identify a healthy node below the desired cut point and make a clean cut just above that node, since new growth will typically continue from below the cut.
- If propagation material is desired, retain any cut vine sections that include at least one healthy node for use as stem cuttings rather than discarding them.
- After cutting, allow the cut surfaces on both the plant and any removed cuttings to air dry briefly before further handling, which helps reduce the risk of rot at the wound site.
- Dispose of any diseased or pest-affected trimmings separately from healthy material to avoid spreading problems to nearby plants.
Aftercare
Following pruning, maintain the plant’s usual high humidity and bright, indirect light, and avoid heavy fertilizing for a week or two afterward to give the plant time to recover before resuming active growth demands.
Special Considerations
Because Philodendron verrucosum is more sensitive to environmental stress than many hardier houseplants, avoid combining pruning with other major stressors, such as repotting or a significant change in location, at the same time whenever possible.
Blooming
Philodendron verrucosum flowers only rarely in cultivation, since this species typically requires several years of mature growth and near-ideal, consistently humid greenhouse-like conditions before it will produce a bloom, making flowering in home collections uncommon and largely dependent on the plant’s age and growing environment. When flowering does occur, it can happen at various points during the warmer months, though there is no strongly defined seasonal pattern reported for cultivated specimens. Like other aroids, the bloom itself consists of a spathe, a modified leaf-like bract typically pale green to cream or occasionally flushed with a subtle reddish tint, wrapped around a central, columnar spadix bearing the plant’s true, tiny flowers, with the bloom period generally lasting only a few days before the spathe begins to fade. Optimal conditions for encouraging a bloom, while rare and never guaranteed for most home growers, generally include a mature, well-established vine with substantial climbing support, consistently high humidity above 70 percent, warm stable temperatures, and years of accumulated healthy growth.
Pests and Diseases
Pests
Common Issues
Spider mites and mealybugs are the most commonly encountered pests on Philodendron verrucosum, with spider mites posing a particular risk in the drier air conditions this humidity-loving species is often kept in when its needs are not fully met, and thrips occasionally appearing as well.
Symptoms
Spider mites cause fine, dust-like stippling across the velvety leaf surface along with faint webbing in more advanced infestations, often especially noticeable against this species’ dark green foliage; mealybugs appear as small, cottony white clusters typically found tucked into leaf axils or along the fuzzy petioles, while thrips cause silvery streaking or stippled discoloration along the leaves.
Treatment
Isolate the affected plant to prevent spread to nearby houseplants, wipe away visible pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol where practical given the leaf’s velvety texture, and follow up with insecticidal soap or a diluted neem oil solution applied to all leaf surfaces, repeating every seven to ten days until the infestation is fully resolved. Because this species’ textured foliage can make spotting pests more difficult, routinely inspecting new growth closely, along with maintaining consistently high humidity to discourage spider mites in particular, helps reduce the likelihood of future outbreaks.
Diseases
Common Issues
Root rot and bacterial or fungal leaf spot are the most significant disease concerns for this species, both closely tied to excess moisture, poor drainage, or overly stagnant, poorly ventilated humid conditions around the foliage.
Symptoms
Root rot typically presents as yellowing lower leaves, a soft or mushy stem base, and stunted or collapsing growth, often only discovered when the plant is removed from its pot and dark, mushy roots are found within the growing medium. Leaf spot appears as small, discolored, sometimes water-soaked lesions on the velvety foliage that can enlarge and merge if conditions remain consistently humid without adequate air circulation.
Treatment
For root rot, remove the plant from its pot, trim away all visibly rotted or blackened roots with clean shears, and repot into fresh, well-draining aroid mix while significantly reducing subsequent watering frequency. For leaf spot, remove and dispose of affected leaves, improve air circulation around the plant even while maintaining high humidity, avoid wetting the foliage directly during watering, and apply a fungicide labeled for ornamental plants if the condition persists or continues to spread.
Special Features
Philodendron verrucosum’s most celebrated special feature is its uniquely textured, velvety foliage, which displays an almost holographic, iridescent sheen across its deep emerald green surface, accented by pale, silvery-green chevron patterning that traces each leaf’s venation, while the reverse side is often flushed a striking burgundy or wine-red that adds further visual depth to the plant. Its fuzzy, reddish, hair-like petioles offer an unusual tactile dimension rarely found among common houseplants, further distinguishing it from smoother-leaved Philodendron relatives and contributing to its status as a highly collectible, visually distinctive aroid among serious plant enthusiasts. As a natural climber, a well-grown specimen trained onto a moss pole or totem can develop into a genuinely dramatic, architectural centerpiece over time, with leaves that grow noticeably larger and more vividly patterned under the humid, supported growing conditions the species prefers.
Plant Benefits
Philodendron verrucosum has no established herbal, medicinal, or pharmaceutical uses and, given the calcium oxalate crystals present throughout the plant, is not suitable or safe for any internal or topical application; its value is purely ornamental, prized by collectors for its uniquely textured, patterned foliage rather than any therapeutic use.
Additional Information
Philodendron verrucosum is frequently confused with the similarly velvet-leaved Philodendron gloriosum, but the two species can be distinguished by growth habit, since verrucosum is a climbing vine that benefits from a moss pole or totem, while gloriosum grows along a creeping rhizome and is typically grown as a low, trailing plant rather than trained vertically; the fuzzy, reddish trichomes on verrucosum’s petioles offer another reliable identifying feature not shared by gloriosum.
Life Cycle
Philodendron verrucosum begins life as a rooted stem cutting or, less commonly in cultivation, a seed-grown seedling, developing an initial small, juvenile leaf that lacks the full velvety texture and pronounced venation pattern of mature foliage. As the plant matures and, ideally, is given a moss pole or similar support to climb, it produces progressively larger, more richly patterned and textured leaves, with the plant’s characteristic iridescent sheen and vein contrast becoming increasingly pronounced over successive growth cycles. Given consistently warm, humid, and stable conditions, a mature specimen may, after several years, produce an aroid-typical spathe-and-spadix bloom, though this remains uncommon in home cultivation and most growers propagate the species vegetatively through stem cuttings rather than relying on seed production. With attentive, consistent care replicating its native rainforest understory conditions, a single Philodendron verrucosum can continue this slow but steady climbing growth pattern for many years, gradually developing into an increasingly impressive, well-foliaged specimen.
Are Philodendron Verrucosum Poisonous, Toxic
Philodendron verrucosum, like all members of the Philodendron genus, is toxic to cats, dogs, and children due to the presence of insoluble calcium oxalate crystals distributed throughout the plant’s tissue, with the leaves and stems representing the primary toxic parts typically involved in accidental ingestion. When chewed or bitten into, these microscopic, needle-like crystals cause immediate and often intense mechanical irritation to the mouth, tongue, and throat in cats, dogs, and children alike, commonly resulting in excessive drooling, pawing at the mouth in animals, difficulty or reluctance to swallow, and vomiting; in more significant ingestions, swelling of the oral tissue and throat can occasionally cause discomfort breathing or swallowing. Severity is generally considered mild to moderate in most cases, since the immediate, intense oral discomfort caused by the crystals often naturally limits how much plant material is actually consumed, though any pronounced swelling affecting the airway should be treated as a more urgent, emergency-level concern. First aid steps for a pet or child who has chewed on or ingested part of the plant include gently rinsing the mouth with water or offering a small amount of milk to help dilute and remove residual crystals, providing a cold, soothing liquid or food if swallowing is tolerated, and closely monitoring for any signs of significant swelling or breathing difficulty, which warrant immediate emergency veterinary or medical attention. A veterinarian should be contacted for any symptomatic pet, and a poison control center or physician consulted for a symptomatic child. Preventive measures include keeping the plant, along with its climbing support structure, well out of reach of curious pets and young children, and supervising pets known to chew on houseplants, particularly given this species’ appealingly textured, fuzzy petioles that may attract curious noses and mouths.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Philodendron Verrucosum toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, like all Philodendrons, it is toxic to cats and dogs due to calcium oxalate crystals, which cause oral irritation, drooling, and vomiting if chewed or ingested.
How much humidity does Philodendron Verrucosum need?
It generally needs 60 to 80 percent humidity or higher, making it best suited to a greenhouse cabinet, terrarium, or consistently humid room.
Is Philodendron Verrucosum easy to care for?
No, it is considered an advanced-level houseplant due to its high humidity requirements and sensitivity to inconsistent watering or light conditions.
Why are the leaves of my Philodendron Verrucosum crisping or browning?
Crisping or browning leaves are most often a sign of insufficient humidity, which is the most common care challenge for this species.
Should I let Philodendron Verrucosum climb?
Yes, providing a moss pole or totem for it to climb typically produces noticeably larger and more mature-shaped leaves than letting the vine trail unsupported.
How do I propagate Philodendron Verrucosum?
Take a stem cutting that includes at least one node, root it in moist sphagnum moss or water under warm, humid conditions, then pot it into a chunky aroid mix once roots develop.
What is the difference between Philodendron Verrucosum and Philodendron gloriosum?
Verrucosum is a climbing vine best grown on a support like a moss pole, while gloriosum grows along a creeping rhizome and is typically grown low and trailing rather than vertically.
How much light does Philodendron Verrucosum need?
It prefers bright, indirect light similar to dappled rainforest shade, and direct sun can easily scorch its delicate, velvety leaves.
Why is my Philodendron Verrucosum growing so slowly?
This species has a naturally slow growth rate, and growth can be further slowed by insufficient humidity, low light, or cooler temperatures.
Does Philodendron Verrucosum flower?
It can, but flowering is rare in home cultivation and generally only occurs on mature specimens grown in near-ideal, highly humid conditions for several years.
Can I grow Philodendron Verrucosum in my indoor space
Difficulty: Advanced
Size: Medium
Light: Medium
Water: Medium
Flowering: Yes
Pet Safe: No
Air Purifier: Low
Philodendron verrucosum botanical details
Common Name: Philodendron Verrucosum
Other Common Names: Ecuador Philodendron, Velvet-Leaf Philodendron, Verrucosum
Botanical Name: Philodendron verrucosum
Native Area: Tropical Central and South America, including Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru
Family Name: Araceae
Plant Type: Hemiepiphytic climbing perennial
Genus: Philodendron
Kingdom: Plantae
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Plant Puns and Jokes
Why did Philodendron Verrucosum refuse to hang out in the dry living room? Because it heard the humidity levels there were simply not up to its velvet standards.
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