About Monstera Siltepecana
Monstera Siltepecana Introduction
Monstera siltepecana is a climbing aroid native to the humid lowland and mid-elevation tropical forests of southern Mexico and Central America, with its range extending through Chiapas, Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. The species takes its name from Siltepec, a municipality in the Mexican state of Chiapas where early botanical specimens were collected. Like many members of the genus Monstera, it grows as a hemiepiphytic vine in the wild, beginning life as a small, ground-hugging juvenile plant on the shaded forest floor before eventually encountering and climbing a suitable tree trunk, at which point the plant’s growth habit, leaf size, and leaf shape all transform dramatically in one of the most striking examples of ontogenetic change found among commonly cultivated houseplants.
In its juvenile, non-climbing stage, Monstera siltepecana produces small, narrow, lance-shaped leaves with a distinctive silvery-gray sheen overlaid on a base of deep olive to blue-green, with darker green veins tracing a subtle pattern across the leaf surface, an appearance that has earned the species its popular common name, the Silver Monstera. As the plant matures and begins climbing, typically once it has attached to a support and begins receiving more light, the leaves undergo a striking transformation, becoming considerably larger, elongating further, developing thicker substance, and eventually producing the natural leaf perforations, or fenestrations, that the genus Monstera is famous for, though these holes in siltepecana tend to be smaller and more elongated than the dramatic splits seen in the well-known Monstera deliciosa.
This dramatic transformation between juvenile and mature growth phases has made Monstera siltepecana especially popular among houseplant collectors interested in growing a plant through its full developmental arc, from a compact, silvery, trailing juvenile suitable for a shelf or hanging basket to an increasingly large, fenestrated, climbing specimen once trained onto a moss pole or totem. This growth pattern, combined with the plant’s relatively fast growth rate and comparatively moderate care requirements relative to some rarer aroids, has positioned Monstera siltepecana as one of the more accessible entry points into monstera collecting beyond the ubiquitous Monstera deliciosa.
Monstera Siltepecana Care & Growing Guide
Caring for Monstera siltepecana successfully hinges on understanding and supporting its dramatic juvenile-to-mature growth transition, since providing a climbing support early on encourages the plant to shift into its larger-leaved, fenestrated mature form far more readily than if it is left to trail indefinitely. Providing a moss pole, coco coir totem, or other rough, moisture-retentive climbing surface, and gently training the vine’s aerial roots to attach to it, is one of the single most effective steps a grower can take to encourage the plant’s most visually striking mature growth.
Light and watering both play a meaningful role in supporting this transformation and overall plant health. Bright, indirect light supports the most vigorous growth and the clearest, most silvery juvenile leaf coloring, while consistently moderate soil moisture, allowing the top inch or two of the growing medium to dry out between waterings, prevents the root rot this species, like most aroids, is vulnerable to in overly wet conditions. A chunky, well-aerated potting mix supports healthy root development and helps buffer against both under- and overwatering mistakes.
Beyond light and water, Monstera siltepecana benefits from consistent warmth, moderate to high humidity, and regular light feeding during its active growing season to support its relatively fast growth rate once established. Occasional pruning to manage vine length and encourage branching, along with periodic repotting as the plant matures and its root system fills its container, round out the straightforward but attentive care routine that helps this species reach its full, dramatically transformed mature form over time.
Soil
Overview
Monstera siltepecana thrives in a loose, well-draining, moisture-retentive growing medium that supports both its aerial climbing roots and its below-ground root system, reflecting the loose, organic-rich substrate it encounters climbing tree trunks in its native rainforest habitat.
Preferred Composition
A chunky aroid mix combining standard potting soil or coco coir with orchid bark, perlite, and a portion of sphagnum moss in roughly equal parts creates the airy, well-draining texture this species prefers while still retaining adequate moisture for its climbing root system.
Ph Range
A mildly acidic pH between 5.5 and 6.5 supports healthy nutrient uptake and vigorous growth.
Drainage
Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot; the pot must have drainage holes, and the plant should never be left standing in a saucer of collected water for an extended period.
Amendments
Horticultural charcoal added at 5 to 10 percent by volume helps keep the medium fresh and reduces the risk of anaerobic, sour soil conditions. Worm castings mixed in lightly at potting time provide a gentle, slow-release source of nutrients.
Soil Problems
Poor Drainage
Waterlogged soil is a common cause of decline in this species, leading to root rot, yellowing leaves, and a mushy stem base. Repot into fresh, well-draining medium and trim any rotted roots if this occurs.
Compaction
Dense, compacted soil restricts root aeration and slows the plant’s naturally vigorous growth; refresh the potting mix every 1 to 2 years to prevent this.
Inappropriate Ph
Alkaline conditions from hard tap water can cause micronutrient deficiencies, visible as pale or yellowing new growth; use filtered water or rainwater to help maintain the appropriate pH range.
Salt Build Up
Fertilizer salts can accumulate with regular feeding, showing up as brown leaf tip burn or a white crust on the soil surface; flush the soil with clean water every couple of months to leach out excess salts.
Nutrient Deficiencies
Pale green or yellowing new leaves during active growth can indicate a need for light, regular feeding, and may also slow the transition to the plant’s mature, fenestrated growth phase.
Root Boundness
A root-bound plant shows roots circling visibly at the surface or emerging from drainage holes, along with soil that dries out unusually quickly; repot into a slightly larger container when this is observed.
Fertilizer
Overview
Monstera siltepecana is a relatively fast-growing plant once established, and it benefits from light, regular feeding during its active growing season to support vigorous new growth and its transition into mature, fenestrated foliage.
Recommended Fertilizer
A balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength, or a fertilizer formulated specifically for aroids or foliage plants, applied during the growing season.
Schedule
Feed every 4 weeks from spring through summer, and reduce or stop fertilizing entirely in autumn and winter when growth slows significantly.
Application Method
Apply the diluted fertilizer solution to moist soil rather than dry soil to reduce the risk of root burn, and avoid splashing fertilizer directly onto the foliage.
Overfertilization Signs
Brown, burnt-looking leaf tips and margins, and a visible white salt crust on the soil surface, are signs of overfertilization.
Underfertilization Signs
Pale, small new leaves and slowed growth during the active growing season, along with a delayed transition to mature foliage, suggest the plant would benefit from more regular light feeding.
Organic Alternatives
Worm castings top-dressed onto the soil surface, or a diluted liquid seaweed or fish emulsion fertilizer applied monthly, offer a gentler, slow-release alternative to synthetic fertilizers.
Watering
Overview
Monstera siltepecana prefers a watering rhythm that allows the top inch or two of the growing medium to dry out between waterings, rather than being kept constantly wet, reflecting its adaptation to well-drained, organically rich substrates in the wild.
Frequency
Roughly every 7 to 10 days during the active growing season in most indoor conditions, extending to every 10 to 14 days in cooler, lower-light winter conditions when growth slows.
Water Quality
This species tolerates ordinary tap water reasonably well, though filtered water, rainwater, or tap water left to stand uncovered overnight are good options for growers who notice leaf tip browning over time.
Underwatering Signs
Leaves that droop, curl inward, or lose their normal firmness, along with dry soil pulling away from the pot’s edges.
Overwatering Signs
Yellowing leaves, a soft or mushy stem base, and a persistently heavy, wet pot are signs of overwatering and potential root rot in this species.
Seasonal Adjustments
Reduce watering frequency in autumn and winter as growth slows with cooler temperatures and lower light, and resume a more regular schedule in spring and summer as active growth resumes.
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Lighting
Ideal Conditions
Bright, indirect light, roughly 200 to 800 foot-candles, is ideal for Monstera siltepecana and supports both vigorous growth and the clearest, most vivid silvery coloration on juvenile leaves.
Insufficient Light Signs
Slower growth, smaller and less silvery new leaves, longer gaps between leaves along the vine, and a delayed or stalled transition from the juvenile to the mature, fenestrated growth phase.
Excessive Light Signs
Direct, intense sun, especially through unfiltered south- or west-facing glass, can scorch the foliage, causing bleached or brown patches, particularly on the more delicate juvenile leaves.
Adjustments
If natural light is limited, a full-spectrum grow light positioned above the plant for 10 to 12 hours a day can support healthy growth and encourage maturation in a dim room. If light is too intense, move the plant back from the window or filter direct rays with a sheer curtain.
Temperature
Ideal Range
Monstera siltepecana thrives at typical indoor temperatures between 65 and 80°F (18 to 27°C), reflecting the warm, stable conditions of its native tropical range.
Cold Sensitivity
This species is sensitive to cold and should not be exposed to temperatures below 55°F (13°C) for extended periods, with prolonged cold exposure causing dark, water-soaked patches on the foliage and potential dieback.
Heat Tolerance
The plant tolerates warm indoor conditions well, handling temperatures into the mid-80s°F (around 29°C) provided humidity and watering are adequate.
Protective Tips
Keep the plant away from cold drafts near exterior doors and windows in winter, and away from direct heating vents and air conditioning units, both of which can cause rapid, stressful fluctuations in leaf moisture.
Humidity
Preferred Levels
Moderate to high humidity, generally 50 to 70 percent, suits Monstera siltepecana best, reflecting its native tropical rainforest habitat, though established plants adapt reasonably well to the average humidity of most homes.
Low Humidity Symptoms
Very dry indoor air, especially near heating vents in winter, can cause browning or crisping leaf edges and slightly slower growth.
High Humidity Symptoms
Excessive humidity combined with poor air circulation can occasionally encourage fungal leaf spot; ensure adequate airflow around the plant in very humid rooms.
Humidifying Methods
Humidifier
A humidifier positioned nearby is one of the most effective ways to raise ambient humidity, particularly in dry, centrally heated rooms during winter, and can help support faster maturation toward the plant’s fenestrated adult form.
Pebble Tray
A wide tray of pebbles and water placed beneath the pot provides a modest, localized humidity boost as the water evaporates around the plant.
Misting
Light misting of the foliage every few days can offer temporary humidity relief, particularly helpful for aerial roots as the plant begins climbing a support.
Reducing Humidity
If fungal leaf spot appears in an overly humid environment, increase air circulation with a small fan and allow slightly more time between waterings.
Propagation
Overview
Monstera siltepecana propagates readily from stem cuttings, a reliable and widely used method that allows growers to multiply their collection or share cuttings, provided each cutting includes at least one node.
Methods
Stem Cuttings In Water Or Moss
Success Rate: High (75–90%) under warm, consistently moist conditions
Description: The standard method, in which a stem section with at least one node is rooted either in water or in moist sphagnum moss before being transferred to soil.
Steps:
- 1. Select a healthy vine and identify a node, the small bump on the stem where a leaf and often an aerial root emerge.
- 2. Using clean, sharp scissors sterilized with rubbing alcohol, cut the stem just below a node, including at least one leaf and one node per cutting.
- 3. If rooting in water, place the cutting in a clear container of room-temperature water with the node submerged, changing the water every 5 to 7 days.
- 4. If rooting in moss, wrap a dampened handful of sphagnum moss around the node and place the cutting in a small, humid propagation container or bag.
- 5. Position the cutting in bright, indirect light and warm conditions, ideally above 70°F (21°C), to encourage rooting.
- 6. Roots typically begin to appear within 2 to 4 weeks, and the cutting can be potted into a chunky aroid mix once roots reach 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) long.
- 7. Provide a small stake or the base of a moss pole at planting time to encourage the newly potted cutting to begin climbing and transitioning toward mature growth sooner.
Best Time
Spring through summer, when warm temperatures and active growth support the fastest and most reliable rooting, though propagation is possible year-round in warm indoor conditions.
Establishment Time
Rooted cuttings typically establish as independently growing plants within 4 to 6 weeks, with new leaf growth confirming successful establishment.
Potting
Pot Type
A standard pot with good drainage suits the juvenile trailing stage well, while a taller pot fitted with a moss pole or coco coir totem is recommended once the plant is ready to be trained toward its mature, climbing form.
Drainage
Drainage holes are essential, along with a well-draining potting mix, to prevent the waterlogged conditions that quickly lead to root rot in this species.
Pot Size
Choose a pot only slightly larger than the current root ball when repotting, generally 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) wider in diameter, to avoid excess soil that retains more moisture than the roots can use.
Repotting Frequency
Every 1 to 2 years, or when the plant has clearly outgrown its current container, as this species is a fairly fast grower that benefits from fresh soil and, eventually, a taller pot to accommodate a climbing support.
Signs Repotting Needed
Roots visibly circling at the soil surface or emerging from drainage holes, water running through the pot unusually quickly without being absorbed, and generally slowed growth despite otherwise good care.
Repotting Process
Gently remove the plant from its current pot, loosen the outer roots, trim away any dead or rotted roots with sterile scissors, and repot into fresh, well-draining mix in a slightly larger container at the same soil depth as before, adding a moss pole at this stage if transitioning the plant toward climbing.
Root Pruning
Light root pruning, trimming no more than 10 to 20 percent of the root mass, can be done at repotting time if the roots are densely circling, to encourage healthier new root growth into the fresh soil.
Transition Tips
Water the plant lightly immediately after repotting and keep it in a slightly shadier, more sheltered spot for a week or two afterward to reduce transplant stress before returning it to its normal display location.
Pruning
Overview
Monstera siltepecana responds well to occasional pruning, which is used primarily to manage vine length, remove damaged or leggy growth, and encourage bushier, fuller growth or redirect the plant’s energy toward climbing and maturing on a support.
Best Time to Prune
Spring through summer, during the active growing season, is the best time for any significant pruning, since the plant will recover and produce new growth most quickly during this period. Light maintenance trimming of damaged leaves can be done at any time of year.
Frequency and Purpose
Trim leggy or overly long trailing vines as needed to maintain a tidy shape or to redirect growth toward a climbing support. Pinch growing tips occasionally during active growth to encourage bushier, fuller growth in plants being kept in their trailing juvenile form. Remove damaged or yellowing leaves as needed throughout the year.
Tools and Preparation
Use clean, sharp scissors or small pruning shears sterilized with rubbing alcohol before use to prevent introducing pathogens to the plant.
Step-by-Step Guide
- Inspect the vines and identify any damaged, yellowing, or excessively leggy stem sections.
- Cut damaged or yellowing leaves at the base of the petiole, close to the main stem, using sterile scissors.
- To encourage bushier growth in a trailing plant, pinch or snip off the growing tip of a vine just above a leaf node, which prompts new branching from lower nodes.
- Trim any excessively long, sparse vines back to the desired length, cutting just above a node.
- Collect healthy trimmed stem sections with at least one node for use as propagation cuttings if desired.
Aftercare and Special Considerations
New growth typically emerges from just below a pruning cut within a few weeks under warm, bright conditions. Growers hoping to encourage the plant’s dramatic mature, fenestrated growth phase should generally prune sparingly and instead focus energy on training the vine onto a climbing support rather than repeatedly cutting it back to a compact, trailing form.
Blooming
Monstera siltepecana can flower, though blooming is uncommon in home cultivation and considerably more likely in mature, climbing specimens grown in warm, bright, high-humidity conditions similar to a greenhouse or outdoor tropical setting. As with other aroids, the flower is not a conventional bloom but a specialized inflorescence consisting of a pale green to cream-colored spathe, a modified leaf-like bract, wrapped around a central spadix bearing the plant’s true, tiny flowers. Flowering typically only occurs once the plant has reached its mature, fenestrated climbing growth phase, reflecting the same juvenile-to-adult transition that governs the dramatic change in the plant’s leaf size and shape, and is not tied to a strict seasonal schedule the way many temperate flowering plants are. Because indoor-grown specimens rarely reach the size, maturity, and sustained ideal conditions needed to trigger blooming, most growers should regard flowering as an exceptional rarity and instead focus on the plant’s dramatic, transforming silver-to-green fenestrated foliage as its primary ornamental value.
Pests and Diseases
Pests
Name: Spider Mites
Symptoms: Fine webbing between leaves and along the stem, along with stippled, dull, or yellowing foliage, most common in warm, dry indoor conditions.
Treatment: Increase humidity, rinse the foliage under lukewarm water to dislodge mites, and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, repeating every 5 to 7 days for several cycles.
Name: Mealybugs
Symptoms: White, cottony clusters at leaf joints and along the stem, often accompanied by sticky honeydew residue.
Treatment: Dab visible clusters with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol and follow up with an insecticidal soap spray, repeating as needed until the infestation clears.
Name: Thrips
Symptoms: Silvery streaking or stippling on the leaf surface, along with tiny black fecal spots, most common in warm, dry growing environments.
Treatment: Isolate the affected plant, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil thoroughly to all leaf surfaces, and use sticky traps to help monitor and reduce adult populations.
Diseases
Name: Root Rot
Symptoms: Yellowing leaves, a soft or mushy stem base, and a persistently wet, heavy pot, typically caused by overwatering or poor drainage.
Treatment: Remove the plant from its pot, trim away all soft, dark, or foul-smelling roots with sterile scissors, and repot into fresh, well-draining medium, reducing watering frequency going forward.
Name: Bacterial Leaf Spot
Symptoms: Small, water-soaked spots on the leaves that enlarge and may develop yellow halos, often spreading in overly wet, poorly ventilated conditions.
Treatment: Remove affected leaves, improve air circulation around the plant, avoid overhead watering that wets the foliage, and avoid working with the plant while its leaves are wet.
Name: Fungal Leaf Spot
Symptoms: Small, irregular brown spots on the leaves, sometimes with a yellow halo, most common in overly humid conditions with poor air circulation.
Treatment: Remove affected leaves, improve air circulation, avoid wetting the foliage during watering, and apply a copper-based fungicide if the issue persists or spreads.
Special Features
Monstera siltepecana’s defining feature is its dramatic transformation from a compact, silvery-leaved juvenile plant into a considerably larger, deep green, fenestrated climbing specimen once it attaches to a support and matures, offering growers a uniquely dynamic, evolving display within a single plant. The luminous, almost metallic silver sheen of its juvenile foliage, set against darker green veining, has made the species particularly popular for shelf and hanging basket displays in its early growth stage, while its eventual development of the characteristic Monstera-style leaf perforations rewards patient growers with an entirely different, more architectural aesthetic later on. This combination of a striking juvenile form and an equally rewarding mature form, achievable through relatively straightforward care and the simple addition of a moss pole, makes Monstera siltepecana a compelling choice for collectors interested in watching a plant’s full developmental journey unfold over time.
Plant Benefits
Monstera siltepecana has no established culinary or pharmaceutical use, and given its toxicity from calcium oxalate crystals, it is not suitable for any home remedy or edible application. Its primary benefits to the home grower are aesthetic and psychological: as with many houseplants, tending to a dynamic, visually rewarding plant like Monstera siltepecana, and watching it progress through its dramatic juvenile-to-mature transformation, is associated with general wellbeing benefits documented in environmental psychology research, including stress reduction and a greater sense of connection to nature and to the passage of time in indoor spaces. Its foliage also contributes modestly to the broader air-purifying qualities associated with many houseplants in the Araceae family.
Additional Information
Monstera siltepecana is sometimes sold in the horticultural trade under a silver-leaf form that closely resembles, and has occasionally been confused with, other silver-toned aroids, so buyers seeking the true species are advised to purchase from reputable specialty nurseries. A distinct climbing form sometimes labeled ‘Monstera siltepecana El Salvador’ is popular among collectors and noted for particularly vivid, high-contrast silvering on its juvenile leaves. As with other monsteras, the species’ dramatic leaf perforations are believed by botanists to serve an adaptive function in the wild, allowing rain to pass through the canopy of large leaves to reach the plant’s own root zone and reducing wind resistance on the broad mature foliage.
Life Cycle
Monstera siltepecana follows a distinctive two-phase life cycle characteristic of hemiepiphytic aroids. It begins as a small, ground-hugging juvenile plant on the shaded forest floor, producing compact, narrow, silvery-toned leaves and trailing or creeping stems as it seeks out a suitable tree trunk to climb. Once the plant makes contact with a climbing support and begins ascending, typically aided by aerial roots that anchor into bark, it undergoes a pronounced shift into its mature growth phase, producing progressively larger, thicker, deeper green leaves that eventually develop the natural perforations, or fenestrations, associated with the genus. This transition can take a considerable period of consistent climbing growth to fully manifest in cultivation, and providing a moss pole or similar support early on is the most reliable way to encourage the shift. Once mature and climbing in ideal conditions, the plant may eventually flower and, if pollinated, produce fruit, though this stage of the life cycle is rare in indoor cultivation. Individual specimens are effectively long-lived under good care, continuing to grow, be pruned, and be repotted for many years indoors.
Are Monstera Siltepecana Poisonous, Toxic
Overview
Monstera siltepecana, like all members of the genus Monstera, is toxic to cats, dogs, and humans if ingested. The ASPCA lists Monstera species as toxic to both cats and dogs, and this species carries the same risk as the more widely known Monstera deliciosa.
Toxic Parts
All parts of the plant contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, with the leaves and stems posing the greatest risk if chewed or ingested.
Organisms Affected
- Cats
- Dogs
- Children
Symptoms
Ingestion
Chewing or ingesting plant material releases calcium oxalate crystals that cause immediate oral irritation, including burning of the mouth and tongue, excessive drooling, difficulty swallowing, and vomiting.
Skin Contact
Contact with the plant’s sap, particularly from a cut stem, can cause mild skin irritation and redness in sensitive individuals.
Severity
Mild to Moderate. Symptoms are typically uncomfortable rather than life-threatening, though significant ingestion or any swelling of the mouth or throat warrants prompt veterinary or medical attention.
First Aid
General
Rinse the mouth with water, offer a small amount of milk to help soothe irritation, and contact a veterinarian, physician, or poison control center if symptoms persist or worsen.
Skin
Wash any irritated skin area with soap and water and avoid further contact with the plant’s sap.
Preventive Measures
Place the plant, particularly trailing juvenile growth within easy reach, out of the reach of pets prone to chewing foliage, and promptly clean up any dropped or trimmed leaf material rather than leaving it accessible on the floor.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Monstera Siltepecana toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, like other Monstera species, Monstera siltepecana is toxic to cats and dogs due to calcium oxalate crystals and can cause oral irritation, drooling, and vomiting if ingested.
How do I get my Monstera Siltepecana to develop holes in its leaves?
Fenestrations typically only develop once the plant reaches its mature growth phase, which is best encouraged by providing a moss pole or similar climbing support and bright, indirect light.
How often should I water Monstera Siltepecana?
Water when the top inch or two of soil has dried out, generally every 7 to 10 days during the growing season and less often in winter, allowing the pot to drain fully each time.
Why is my Monstera Siltepecana losing its silver color?
The silvery sheen is most pronounced in juvenile leaves; as the plant matures and begins climbing, new leaves naturally become larger, deeper green, and eventually fenestrated, which is a normal part of its growth rather than a problem.
How do I propagate Monstera Siltepecana?
Take a stem cutting with at least one node, root it in water or moist sphagnum moss in bright, indirect light, and transplant into a chunky aroid mix once roots reach 1 to 2 inches long, typically within 2 to 4 weeks.
What light does Monstera Siltepecana need?
Bright, indirect light is ideal, supporting both vigorous growth and the plant’s transition toward its mature, fenestrated form.
Does Monstera Siltepecana need a moss pole?
A moss pole is not strictly required but is strongly recommended, since climbing on a support is the most reliable way to encourage the plant’s dramatic transition to larger, fenestrated mature leaves.
Why are the leaves on my Monstera Siltepecana turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves most commonly indicate overwatering and the early stages of root rot, though occasional lower leaf yellowing as the plant matures can also be a normal part of growth.
How big does Monstera Siltepecana get?
Juvenile plants remain fairly compact and trailing, but mature, climbing specimens can grow considerably larger over time, with leaves substantially bigger than those seen in the juvenile stage.
How much humidity does Monstera Siltepecana need?
Moderate to high humidity around 50 to 70 percent is ideal, though established plants adapt reasonably well to the average humidity found in most homes.
Can I grow Monstera Siltepecana in my indoor space
Difficulty: Intermediate
Size: Medium to Large
Light: Medium
Water: Medium
Flowering: Yes
Pet Safe: No
Air Purifier: Medium
Monstera siltepecana botanical details
Common Name: Monstera Siltepecana
Other Common Names: Silver Monstera, Silvery Monstera, Siltepecana, Silver Philodendron (misnomer)
Botanical Name: Monstera siltepecana
Native Area: Humid lowland and mid-elevation tropical forests of southern Mexico (Chiapas) and Central America, including Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama.
Family Name: Araceae
Plant Type: Perennial evergreen climbing hemiepiphyte
Genus: Monstera
Kingdom: Plantae
Photo Gallery
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Plant Puns and Jokes
Why did Monstera Siltepecana refuse to pick a signature look? Because between the silver juvenile phase and the fenestrated adult phase, it figured why commit to one style when it could have two entire eras.
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